Apalachicola to Mobile Bay

May 22, 2013

Apalachicola was a delight!  Located on the ‘Forgotten Coast’

(Remember all the definitions of Florida’s areas---the Gold Coast, the Space Coast, the etc etc etc), well, this section of the Panhandle, from Carabelle to Panama City, has been called the Forgotten Coast.   And in Apalachicola, folks like it that way.

This is a town where volunteers plant flowers in public places, and then tend the gardens.  Where a local gentleman hailed us boaters on the VHF radio to point out an area of shoaling, shallow water---and then offered water hoses to wash the boats and fill the tanks----and then insisted that we tourists use his golf cart to get around town!

There are shops run by pottery makers, jewelry makers, antique shops,

a kitchen gadget store, and galleries for all kinds of art.   Did I mention the ice cream store?  Or the coffee shop that sells books to benefit the library and a commemorative chart of the Apalachicola River to benefit the Maritime Museum?

Fred did have one fairly crappy day, you should pardon the pun.  Our VacuFlush wouldn’t.  So, as Fred is captain and official repair person, he ran test after test to attempt to isolate the problem, and finally took the tank apart and discovered calcification inside—perhaps similar to what we found in a water pipe a few months ago.  I stayed out of the way (not exactly a sacrifice…) as he spent hours chipping away.  The newly restored tank works like a charm, and we are happy.

Over the weekend, the Civil War was fought yet again.  A tent city was set up by re-inactors, and Linda and I toured two antebellum houses where we were treated to stories such as the indignity of the capture of the CSS Tennessee.  Said the guide, “ Why, the Union changed its name to the  USS Tennessee, and used it against us!” 

A Union boat did maneuvers in the River where we were docked, and in the afternoon chased a Confederate sloop out of the area.  It was great.

While underway, we routinely peek into the engine room, just to check.  Half way to Panama City, Fred looked in and saw a broken clamp in the bilge (on the floor, for you non-boaters….).  It was important—a clamp that tightens the stuffing box around the engine shaft---translation---it is a place that keeps the water outside the boat.  A condition devoutly to be sought!  As luck would have it, White City was just ahead, and very politely provided a small dock for us to put a line on.  Bing, bang, boom.  New clamp and we’re off.  At Panama City (our next stop) we replaced all the rusting hose clamps.   

That is about all we did at Panama City---in and out. Next stop as we moved west was one we’ve routinely passed up---and will again, but had to check it out. 

The approach to Destin’s Harbour set off warning messages, but by then we were committed.  Not only were there boats, large and small, every which way in the skinny channel, to get into the channel meant making a hard left under a bridge and escaping the inlet to the Gulf.  Inlets are filled with rushing water that wants to take your boat out to sea.  In the midst of this melee was a woman blissfully riding a paddle board!  Once inside (whew) Destin’s Harbour was delightful!  SEA DREAM and YOUNG AMERICA found places to swing comfortably on our respective anchors, and although a water taxi was available, we chose to give Chucky, the dinghy, his first outing.

Ashore, the Boardwalk was a County Fair Midway with Disney overtones!  Many, many vacationing families surging about, drinking beer and scheduling fishing trips or sight seeing boat rides.  Country music filled the air and a little train full of wee folks threaded six cars through the crowd, tooting happily.  We found a hot dog stand and (surprise surprise) an ice cream stand, and spent an hour people watching, one of our favorite sports.

The next night’s anchorage was, in temperament, a full 180 degrees from Destin.  Just past Pensacola we crossed the Big Lagoon and found a totally quiet spot.  Around 5:30, when the day had cooled a bit, we dinghied ashore and walked in the white sand of the Santa Rosa Island beach.  Crossed over the dunes to wade in an angry looking Gulf, and enjoyed watching Louis, the Borum’s newly groomed poodle, chase sticks. We found many beautiful shells, but each turned out to be inhabited by a hermit crab.  The beach was delightful.

Next stop, Mobile.  Or not.  Weather Works, our Sirius Radio weather program showed a really big storm over New Orleans.  As the day wore on, the storm dissipated, but by the time we neared the entrance to Mobile Bay the wind was up to 30 mph.  Poked our nose into the Bay at 11:30 a.m., and quickly decided that we didn’t want to be pounded by tall waves for four hours.  Fortunately, LuLu’s was at hand.  We motored back ½ hour and tied up at the famous restaurant owned by Jimmy Buffet’s sister just in time for lunch!

LuLu’s is an amazing spot.  We were told they served 700 lunches and over 1200 dinners by 6 p.m. And this is the slow season!  Both our lunch and dinner servers can’t wait for the ‘Season’ to start, so they wlll get busy!   The complex staffs over 300 locals and is expanding!  Our server, Victoria, explained that people are hired for 5 different areas in the food prep area and must prove themselves before being allowed to wait tables.  In the highly specialized kitchen a separate area is allegedly set aside for allergy prep.  A manager is alerted when a customer asks for the allergy menu---which has separate pages for Gluten, Dairy, Shellfish and Soy and is as glossy and well done as the regular menu.  Allergy orders must be taken by, and the food delivered by a manager!  “We take this seriously”, said Cheryl, the evening manager.  What an example for restaurants that are far less busy!  Or maybe that is part of why LuLu’s IS so busy…

Well, OK, maybe it has something to do with the fact that outside there is a huge sandy ‘beach’ with a gift shop, beach volleyball court, wet area for toddlers to build sand castles, and a multi-tiered ropes course.  For $12.00 one can don a harness and walk tightropes, rope ladders, steel beams, steep stairways and the turn arounds connecting them---all 3 stories above the beach. The play area is no doubt a huge draw!

The season begins this weekend, and the pace will double or more.  LuLu is in Key West this week, (where she does her thinking…) and construction is underway for the next addition---to open in June.  We’ll stop again in the fall, I betcha!

Today the Gulf is calm, and for insurance, we’re up and out at first light.  Next stop, as I said before, is Mobile.

Take care of you, and enjoy the Memorial Day Holiday!  Our thoughts will be with those who serve.  We’ll fly our big flag to honor veterans, past, present and future!