Columbus, MS to the end of the Tenn-Tom. (June 1-11, 2013)

Our trip north from Columbus was ‘follow the tow boat’ time.   There are 12 locks on the Tenn-Tom Waterway. The first 5 have been open and ready for us as we approached.  Not so much the last 7. 

We left Columbus with 4 other boats, and both Monday and Tuesday were all day  ‘lock and wait’ events, as a towboat ahead of us took priority in the lock chamber. 

The tow and 3 of the 5 boats.  SEA DREAM is behind us.

Even if we’d passed it and arrived at the gates first, the locks are so close together that the lockmaster would ask us to wait till the tow had regained first place. (We know this for sure, as one among us did just that.)  Fortunately, both days we were able to easily reach safe harbor before dark, and the slow travel was a nice change of pace from our usual rip-roaring 7 miles per hour.  

It was actually a good thing that we were slow moving, as the switch between our batteries and inverter (the machine that changes [inverts, that is] DC battery power to AC so the refrigerator, lights, etc., actually most of the stuff on the boat--- can work) failed. We, of course, didn’t know until hours later, (after much diagnostic work) why the navigation computer and all lights went off

Engineers engrossed

…It is all good, as Fred and Mike figured it out and a new switch is on its way.  We love companies like Blue Skies, the maker of the switch, who have such a wonderful ‘if it breaks send it back and we’ll replace it’ policy.

Wednesday was a lazy day, as we moseyed about forty miles to the end of the Tennessee-Tombigbee waterway.

We anchored in a delicious spot called Zippy Cove, and once again rafted to our Buddy Boat, SEA DREAM.  The water was ‘swim in me’ clear, and both Mike and I did just that.  Louie the boat dog wanted to swim, too, but he wasn’t allowed. 

Water was great!  Louie would have loved it, too!

Late in the morning a Garmin Survey boat came by, apparently noting the contours of the bottom.  Total traffic for the day: that boat, one snake, 4 ducks, two snapping turtles and a whole lot of jumping fish. 

Next repair item: Mike and Linda’s boat has a leaky shaft seal that must be replaced.  There is reportedly a good worker-bee nearby, Mike and Fred went off to explore and check it out.

So long, Fred and Mike.  Hurry back!

On Thursday, we added yet another repair/replace item to the mix!  Took Chucky down to go for a ride, and as we were zipping along, suddenly there was a screech and then silence from the 9.9hp propane powered motor.  Dead.  It’s less than 3 months old and has had about 5 hours of use, so there is no question (at least in Fred’s mind) about replacement.  Just have to figure out where and how.  Happily, no less than four boats stopped to see if we were rowing for pleasure, or if we needed assistance.  Mike and Linda towed us home with their dinghy.

On Friday we moved the boats to the Aqua Harbor Marina.  Linda and I used their courtesy car to go to the Shiloh Civil War site, a spot I’ve wanted to visit each time we’ve passed this way.  The ride around the battlefield was 13 miles long, with a stretch of the Tennessee River running along one edge, and I saw my first Golden Eagle, sitting above his huge nest.  For real!

See the large bird in the branches?  He's looking the other way....

Given the lay of the land, we were amazed that during that 2 day battle, anyone could keep track of who was where in the rain and mud.  It was not surprising that at one point, Rebel troops were told to hold their fire, as their leaders thought that the approaching troops were part of their own contingent.  Wrong.  It was the Union forces, and they were able to regain lost ground and win the battle. General Beauregard, the Southern officer who took command when General Johnston died, had predicted that if the Confederate forces lost Shiloh, they could not prevail.  And so it was.  The Civil War was a great tragedy---as is any war.  After the two days of the Battle at Shiloh, 20,000 young men were killed, wounded or missing, and it would be three more years of battle after Shiloh---ugly, hand to hand combat--- before the blood bath ended.  Uffda.

On Friday, we met up with Ed and Janice, one of the couples from the 5 boats in the Tow boat parade earlier in the week.  They live nearby, and joined us for dinner.

Linda, Linda, Mike, Janice and Fred

Saturday and Sunday we caught up on some old movies…Linda and I enjoyed taking turns with the ‘every other night cooking’!  Traveling with SEA DREAM was a  very good time. 

Our next step is to head up the Tennessee… We’ll be heading for the headwaters at Knoxville, which is mostly east and a whole lot north of here.   And as usual, I'm running a bit behind with the blog.  sigh.

We will be in touch!  Be well, remember to breathe, and also to smile from the heart!

Mobile Bay to Columbus, MS

Mobile Bay was as smooth as glass.  A much more pleasant crossing was gained by waiting out the wind and waves!

Plan A had been to overnight at Turner Marine, after buying a bit of diesel at the Dog River Marina next door.  As it was only 10:30 in the morning, we got the diesel, and did a mail swap at Turner’s. They had kindly held mail for us, and we had some to send out.  The nice man at the Dog River Marina loaned me a car to run next door.  People are the best!  Half hour stop and we're on the way.

By 1:30 we were in the Mobile River, officially the beginning of the Tennisee-Tombigbe Waterway.  From now until Paducah, KY, mile numbers will define location.  The Waterway is 450 miles long, and we are at mile 0.

After passing thru the busy, bustling Port of Mobile, we met our first obstacle at mile 14.  The Southern Railroad Lift Bridge, which in 2011 replaced the old swing bridge, was in the down position.   That means only a few feet of clearance above the water. 

Not nearly enough, and the operator said on the radio “there is ‘trouble’ with the bridge”.  Repairs could take an hour or a couple of days.  We could see about 8 worker-bees with large crowbars milling about.  So we moseyed (we do a lot of moseying) right up close enough so that from the bow of our boat I could speak with the worker. As instructed by the Captain, I told him we'd just wait. A miracle happened, and the bridge was lifted!  We passed under, and then they continued with the work that needed to be done!  We called it Fred’s not-so-subtle-reminder that we weren’t going away.

We wound our way north (and east and west, and occasionally south) through lots and lots of debris.  Although it is late spring, there were still a whole lot of branches, limbs, tree trunks and assorted other stuff floating in the water. 

Mike, aboard SEA DREAM went aloft to his fly bridge to drive the boat.  The view from on high made it much easier to dodge the obstacles.  Added bonus for him was a nice breeze.  The temp got to 95 degrees.  We closed the boat and turned on the A/C.

On the map, the mouth of the Tensas River enters the Mobile River about 10 miles north of the city of Mobile.  When we arrived at that point, we’d traveled 38 miles.  Rivers do NOT run straight, and oxbows (U turns wide enough for a tug pushing barges to negotiate) are common.  Very common.

 We motored a little way up the Tensas, and found a delightful spot to anchor.  Actually, SEA DREAM anchored, and then Fred drove YOUNG AMERICA alongside and for the first time,

SEA DREAM was rafted to another boat!   Had a nice dinner and chat aboard YA, and later we all slept with confidence, knowing that the Rockne anchor was equal to holding two boats in 2.5 knot current.  That water was boiling past!

At 8 a.m. we loosed our lines, and headed off into the current.  The Mobile/Tombigbee River is heading out to sea, so our speed, normally slow, is really slow.  The air is delightful---only got to 85 this afternoon, with half of yesterday’s humidity.  A delicious ride.

The scenery is changing.  Palm trees have given way to their deciduous cousins, most notably cottonwoods---complete with puffs of snowflake-like fluff blowing about, cyprus with their abundance of knees---

and what we think may be ‘kudzu,’ an ivy like fast growing ground cover that really covers!  It is, according to the dictionary, useful for erosion control, but has become a ‘terrible pest’ in the Southeastern USA.  Looks pretty, though.  There are intermittent bluffs, and occasional sandy beaches.  When I do my Qi Gong exercises on the bow early in the morning, I’m treated to songbirds greeting the day.  They make a much more gentle sound than the screeches of the sea gulls.

We rafted again for the night---this time in our old friend, Old Lock #1.  In 2009, when on the Great Loop, we celebrated our return to sea level at this stop.  Tonight we toasted the future that awaits---the ‘Dirty Dozen’ (12 Locks) of the Tenn-Tom.  Spaghetti dinner for four is much more fun than anchoring alone!

Saturday sounds of the River: song birds, and the nearly constant buzzing of motorboats and personal watercraft!  It’s Memorial Day Weekend, and folks, bless them, are spending time on the water! 

We decided to take advantage of the last good anchorage between here (mile 144.5) and our planned stop at mile 216, Demopolis, AL, and so at 1:00 we turned into Bashi Creek.  The rule here is to use bow and stern anchors.  With both ends of the boat secured, it theoretically is prevented from swinging side to side---into the trees.  So we did that; sorta.  Actually, we have bow and bow anchors. 

Fred backed YOUNG AMERICA up to SEA DREAM when both boats had anchors out.  We shortened the scope (made the anchors more taut) when the sterns were secured to each other and now have a new rafting device.  Mike and Linda were probably only marginally more amazed that it worked than were Fred and Linda!  When they asked how many times we’ve done this before, Fred had to ‘fess up that this was the first!

The boats look like mating MayFlies!

Chucky had to go into the water immediately so photos could be taken from every possible angle!  

Separating the boats in the morning was a snap.  Literally.  We loosened the stern lines and the anchors pulled each boat forward.  So we drove away, while Mike did a 180 degree turn in the Creek, and we’re off!

Next stop was Demopolis, and this time we went to the Kingfisher Marina, the ‘new’ section.  It is lovely.  Floating docks, a great laundry/TV room and a beautiful outdoor pool.  Mrs. Taylor, the woman responsible for the new marina, was tending to the flowers, and stopped to chat with us while we enjoyed the pool.  There were hummingbirds entertaining us, as well.  

Grocery shopped at WalMart, and when returning the car keys, met Shane Vessell, Tow boat operator, who agreed to give us all, including Louis,  a tour of the tugboat LARRY TILLY.  Very impressive.  Fred allows as how the real thing looks exactly like the simulator he drove in Point Pleasant last year.

After 3 days in Demop—during which we swam, toured the antebellum Bluff Hall, and meandered about town, we headed north again.  Anchored at Windham Landing the night before reaching Columbus.  And here in Columbus we remain.

Jan and Dan Barnett (Jan is my high school classmate---we're both from Aberdeen, SD.  They now live in Aberdeen, MS, after 20 years in Aberdeen, WA. Go figure…) were co-incidentally at the dock when we tied up, and we joined them for a Mexican dinner.  Good time.  We’ve also toured Waverly Mansion, an antebellum home with a fascinating history. 

Robert and Madonna Snow  purchased the home 50 years ago.  Their daughter, Melanie, pictured here with her mom's portrait, was our tour guide.  The house had been empty, except for the ‘little girl ghost’ who watched over it, (google will tell you the whole story) while it was empty--except for frequently visiting teens and transients.  The Snow family has done an astonishing job of cleaning and re-furbishing.  The place is beautiful, and it needs a whole lot more TLC.  The peacocks in the pen behind the formal (but mostly unattended) gardens were colorful in a way that only peacocks can be.

Monday morning we’re off, heading north on the Tombigbee.  We’ll connect again when we reach the Tennessee River.

I've obviously been playing with the format of the blog.  Would appreciate pro and con comments, if you don't mind....I'm hoping to be able to move (and save) the sidebar of photos---thought it would stay with the older posts with the switch to one post per page, but it didn't.  Anyone know the trick?

Be well and smile from the heart!