Green Turtle Bay to St. Pete November, 2013

Whoosh!  And a month goes by!  We’ve been busy little rascals, as I’m sure you have as well!

Anyone who’s ridden horses may know the expression 
                                  “Hold ‘er, Newt—she’s headin’ for the barn!”   
A horse who knows the way home will, if allowed, take off running---and this month YOUNG AMERICA has behaved like that----or maybe it was us!

We left Green Turtle Bay, KY, and came down the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway just as if there was a bear chasing us.  On the water?  I don’t think so, but we stayed only one night each at these ‘old familiar places…’

 Pebble Isle—where we didn’t wait around for the cinnamon buns---we were up and out early!

Aqua Harbor---where we guided the LI’L RED TUG into the harbor with our spotlight. Mike and Beccie had been held up at the lock until after dark, just as we were the last time we came south here.

Bay Springs---where I rode to WalMart with Tom and Melissa from JOURNEY.

 The Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway was dressed in her finest fall colors,

and our timing on the locks was also magnificent. In one day we passed thru 6 locks while traveling 53 miles.  We tied up at the Aberdeen, MS marina at 4:50, and the sun went down at 4:54.  Perfect.

We laughed at the heron who joined us in two of the locks—lunch time for him, I guess, but he hopped down from ledge to ledge as we dropped.  OK, maybe it wasn't the same heron, just the same behavior.  They do all look pretty much alike... A bit haughty, don't you think?

Along the way we also saw a flock of turkeys, several cows, a dead alligator afloat,

2 eagles and, further south, many many dolphins. Note the change in water color.

This was waaaaay more wildlife that we usually see!  And up close.  This pelican entertained us for about 15 minutes.  Hilarious!

From Aberdeen, we went to Pirate’s Cove Marina where 3 Looping boaters joined us for Happy Hour.   Next day on the way to Sumter Landing a deer swam across the river in front of us, then stepped out to pose on the shore.  Lucky for him we’re not hunters!  

We anchored in Sumter’s Cove rafted to FRANCESCA (Chuck and Margaret) with  JOURNEY (Tom and Melissa with their dog Mango) across the way.  Knute came up covered with thick mud, while Tom smiled and said they were in nice clean sand.  We’ve anchored in the sand on that side twice before---now we know where the mud is!  UFFDA.

We did spend two nights in Demopolis, AL.  Actually left and rode to the lock at 10:30 in the morning, but when the lockmaster announced a 2 hour wait we went back to our slip and spent another night.  By 8 the next morning we were the 8^th of 8 boats exiting the lock.  Some go-fast boats hurried on, but 5 of us anchored in Bashi Creek where Tom, Melissa, Chuck and Margaret joined us for a ‘little bit of something’.   Nice visit.

Friday was a rainy morning with temps in the 50’s, and we decided to stop after a short run at Bobby’s Fish Camp.  We’ve paused there in the past but never had the full Bobby’s experience.  Got it this time!

YOUNG AMERICA and KAWLIGA were docked in the short spot to the right.  We left early.

8 boats spent the night rafted to the dock long enough for 3, and everyone enjoyed fried catfish cooked by Sheila---who also delivered hugs to all!

After one more night of anchoring at the Alabama River cutoff, and yet another day with no phone service or internet, we arrived at Turner Marine in Mobile, AL.

Immediately rented a car and drove to New Orleans.  It’s only 2 hours by car---much easier than the 950 mile slog down the MS would have been!  We met up with Captain Dave (from the excursion boat in MPLS) and his ‘we’ve known each other for 6 months on the internet, now we’ve met in person’ lady friend Linda. 

  Nice couple, very happy together, and besides that a great breakfast at Mother’s.

The World War II Museum in NOLA is, we think, a ‘must see’.

That flag is like the one that was in our window for the 2.5 years my dad served in the Army--1942-45.

  We spent a full day there re-living the battles via fabulous interactive displays, 4-D movies, planes and trains, boats and jeeps. 

Sue Lampton, our new best friend at the Museum

We had lunch with Sue, and caught a few minutes of an Andrews Sisters-type group's performance.  We had to leave the museum when it closed, so we topped off the day with dinner at the Bon-Ton, Fred’s favorite NO restaurant. 

Next day the Bon Ton’s #1 ranking got seriously challenged by the Commander’s Palace.  We were treated royally, enjoyed a delicious lunch and recommend the place highly! The food probably tasted better because the service was so 'over the top'. 
We were given Celebration hats after we ate!

                                  Thanks, Ted and Kris for sending us there!

New Orleans is just fun.  Where else will the Sheraton Hotel be decorated with Blue Dogs? 

Billy Joel and others have autographed this Steinway on display in the lobby.

Or a beignet (fried square of dough) be heaped with powdered sugar as at Café du Monde?   Part of the fun there is watching at the back window as the dough is flattened, cut and tossed over the baker’s shoulder into the vat of hot oil! 

He was so quick I couldn't catch the toss! He never looked back.

We walked and walked—and enjoyed our brief visit thoroughly.

We might as well have stayed longer in New Orleans. From Friday until Wednesday we were weathered in at Turner’s.  High winds make crossing Mobile Bay a no-no.  Our only trip was to the marina next door for a pump out and that was not a nice ride.  On Wednesday, we joined 40 or so others at the Marina’s annual day-before-Thanksgiving pot luck feast, and then had 11 of our neighbors over for beer and wine at 5.  (oops no photos...)

On Thanksgiving Day the wind finally calmed and we headed out.  Tied up in Pensacola, and the next day found an empty slip at the Marbella Yacht Club in the Destin Harbour.  On Saturday we arrived in Panama City just in time for the annual Christmas decorated boat parade and festival at the Marina.  Fun.

Sunday morning Fred was up at 4 a.m. checking websites that sport isobars, wind velocity, wave height and such, and by 8 am we’d decided to poke our noses into the Gulf of Mexico and see if it was calm enough to cross.  We did and it was.

Nearing sunset. 4 fishing boats abeam to port---one had to be towed home.

 29 hours later we entered the Clearwater, FL inlet and anchored in a gorgeous cove. This Gulf crossing was the calmest of the 5 that we’ve experienced.   How calm was it?   Not once did we use the windshield wipers to remove spray---NO waves over the bow!   That is amazing.

The only tension came when, after dark, a boat with proper running lights, on a course to cross from our left to right, stayed on a collision course, according to our radar screen.  We gave way, veered behind it and watched its lights cross in front of us.   Thought it must be a fisherman who sets a course and never sees another boat, so doesn’t pay much attention--- until the radar blip turned around 180 degrees and, again, according to the radar, came back straight toward us. We could no longer see any running lights---just a radar blip aimed directly at our starboard side.  

At that moment, knowing we were about 20 miles from shore, in the black dark with no one else around, I was very sorry we’d seen the movie “Captain Phillips”.  

Without warning, instead of ramming us, the blip on the radar suddenly disappeared (???) and the ‘boat’ was gone.  NO explanation for that one, and we are very happy that the rest of the ride was totally without event!  

We anchored in 'Mike's Cove' (SEA DREAM, discovered this spot back in May), and after a bowl of soup we had a good long sleep!  In the morning we were hard put to leave Clearwater (even though the Sherriff came by to ‘make sure we were ok’)

as it was so serene and gorgeous.  But St. Pete was calling and so we made the  easy 4 hour ride, and here we are.  Back on last year’s dock (St. Pete Municipal Marina),  and we are in Slip SX3, just across from last year’s slip.  We’ve a roof over our heads and a long list of plans! 

This will be the end of the blog for 2013.  We expect to spend about 6 weeks in Newburgh over the holidays, and then from January to April, simply relax in the sun while preparing the boat for whatever comes next.  There is a Hampton Inn just 2 blocks away, and we welcome all visitors!

The geranium is masquerading as a poinsettia, and it is festive!

Enjoy your holidays!  December presents us all with the challenges of  keeping in touch with the family and friends who are with us, and holding in love those who are only available in spirit.  So remember to breathe, and above all, be well!

See you in the spring!

St. Lous to Green Turtle Bay October 22-November 1, 2013

To resume our saga now that the internet is reasonably stable---it has been absent or ailing for some time now!  That’s my story and I’m sticking with it!

Back at Port Charles Harbor, the boat was hauled and the ‘shudder’ refused to show up when the workmen were there, so we’ll just continue to wonder about it.  Hate when that happens, but the good news is that there was no huge expense or time delay involved!

There are no marinas in St. Louis, but there is a barge that allows overnighters, so we gave it a try. We were about ½ mile south of that beautiful arch, and less than that from Busch Stadium.

  Three days later that neighborhood would be mobbed with (now dejected) Cardinals fans!  Jim, the worker-bee loaned us his car and we drove uptown to the Broadway Oyster Bar for some kickin’ jambalaya!

And on to the goofy 200 miles---St. Louis to Cairo.  First, let me say that the River can be beautiful!  Especially wearing its fall finery!

Riding south, with the current really pushing us, we arrived at Hoppes marina well before noon.  We paused long enough to buy 150 gal. of diesel fuel, then continued on to the lock at the Kaskaskia River.  Surprise---no lock wall.  It’s been removed for repairs, so we anchored, and in the a.m. rejoined the river. 

This is the stretch of the Mississippi where, you may rrcall, when going upstream we left the Diversion Channel at 6:30 am.  After a 7 hour slog, we were forced to anchor in the disappearing wingdam 20 miles short of the Kaskaskia River..  Going downstream WITH the current is a whole different ball of wax. 

Fogged in at Kaskaskia, we couldn’t leave until 9:30 am, and 6 hours later turned into the Diversion Channel! 

There is always something.  While putting the anchor down, I noticed what I thought was a Styrofoam cooler floating downstream toward us.   Fred looked at it and saw the bow of a sunken boat.  Guess who was right???  We put Chucky down and rowed to the object, dragged it to  YOUNG AMERICA, put Chucky away and attached our find to the davit to lift it from the water.  You guessed it!  A fiberglass skiff about 18’ long!  Called the Coast Guard to ask what to do with it.  My techno-savvy self was able to email a photo,

and when they saw it, they suggested that we tie it to the shore and abandon it.  Not possible, so as a second choice, Fred got out his drill and ‘aerated’ the bow section that was refusing to sink. We cut off the long polypropylene rope that was floating with the boat  (and just begging to wrap itself around someone’s propeller), and set the little feller adrift. 

In 7 minutes—and well before it got out to the shallow water at the mouth of the creek into the River where mayhem was possible, it disappeared to Davy Jones’ Locker.

Next?

Saturday morning we threaded our way among a very steady stream of towboats to Cairo, IL, where we happily made the turn into the Ohio River.  By unanimous vote, we’d decided to postpone the Lower Mississippi Sleigh Ride. Cairo to New Orleans (950 miles) would be a month of constant vigilance and uncertainty, and as we’ve had about 3500 miles of ‘new’ experiences this summer, we’re both ready to return to ‘familiar’.  Maybe next year.  It will be there if we decide to return!

Our speed dropped from 12.5 miles/hour to 6.7 as we headed up the Ohio. 

The charts show 3 locks ahead.  About 11 miles from the junction of the two major rivers, is the Olmstead L&D which is under construction. A few miles further upstream are the antiquated (1929 construction) Lock #53 and then Lock #52.  Both are considered to be “beyond their design lives and unreliable”.

interior of lock #52--nothing for us to tie to on the crumbling cell wall.  We floated.

The Olmstead has been under construction since 1987 when its projected cost was $775 million.  As of 2011, (the most current Army Corps of Engineers info I found and the source of my quotes) $1.4 billion had been expended, with the project 45% complete. The locks are built; the dam is not. Expected completion date is now 2024 at a cost of $2.9 billion.  The Corps estimates that “on an annual basis, approximately 90 million tons of waterborne commerce passes through this area” and “the completed project will have net annual benefits of approximately $640 million, returning more than the construction costs in less than five years”.  When Olmstead is operational Locks 52 and 53 will be removed—that is part of the predicted timeline and cost estimate. It is a muddle.  I won’t get political, but if you are interested, there is a fair amount of chatter about Congressional funds and Kentucky politics online….

We went through Lock #53 at 5:10 pm, and headed for a dock that the chart showed was just ahead, next to a launch ramp.  Oops.  No dock—launch ramp’s there, and a fishing boat launched as we watched, but there was  nowhere to tie our little boat.  So with dark fast approaching, we slowly crossed through the Rocky part of the River, labeled “Do not anchor here” to the Kentucky side.  We anchored well out of the channel, in a wide open space with no apparent rocks and virtually no protection from wind or current.  Times like this we are very, very happy that Knute weighs twice as much as is necessary for a boat our size.  We slept soundly, and at 7:30 am were off to the next adventure!

Lock #52 on the Ohio has a large chamber (1200’ long) that was closed for maintenance.  As only the smaller chamber, (600’ long) was operational we expected delay while large tows were taken apart and locked up piecemeal.   At 8:30 am the Coast Guard reported on the radio that Lock #52 was closed until further notice as a barge sank in the small chamber!  Naturally, we scooted up to see what we could see.

Rip Rap loaded barge, like the one that sank Sorry you can't see the huge stream of water being pumped out of this barge before it would be allowed to enter Lock #52

We saw the towboats we had passed yesterday ‘parked’ along the side of the river, and a barge loaded with rip rap (large stones used mostly to build wing dams and reinforce shorelines) below the waterline in the small lock.  There were no clear estimates about when traffic would begin to move, so we motored back to Fort Massac near Metropolis, IL where there IS a 50’ dock by a launch ramp.  We tied up and went for a walk.  Yes, Metropolis boasts that it is the home of Superman, and yes you can buy any number of souvenirs there!  We didn’t.

At 2:30 we returned to the boat, and drove back to the lock.  Large amounts of water were being pumped out of another barge (see photo above) that was blocking other towboats from the entrance to the large chamber which was suddenly able to be open and ready for traffic.  The Lockmaster invited us in as we were small enough to get past the barge.    By the time we exited the lock at 3:17 pm, the lockmaster said he had 58 towboats with barges backed up waiting to use the lock!   I just checked the ACOE website * (Thursday morning) and there are still 43 towboats with a combined total of 479 barges waiting to lock through    What a disaster!

*We show on that list as one of only two Recreational Vessels to lock through.  Cool, I’ve never looked at that site before!

Our next stop was (is) our old friend Green Turtle Bay.  We’re their most frequent non-midwestern transient---this is the 5^th time we’ve been here!

Mike and Linda Borum (and Louis the Sea Dog) live a couple of hours away in Nashville, and bless her heart, Linda drove over Tuesday and brought us to their home.  We had first row balcony tickets to the Grand Ole Opry (the only day this week with seats available) and what a treat! On the schedule to perform:  Barry Gibb (think BeeGees) and Ricky Skaggs (think BlueGrass)!! Barry Gibb has just begun to tour (alone, as brothers Maurice and Robin died in 2003 and 2012), and sang with the Opry backup group. 

Hair: grey.  Falsetto: intact!  He was fabulous!  Then Ricky Skaggs followed with 3 or 4 songs before inviting Barry back onstage.  You’d have thought Ricky Skaggs sang Disco all his life!  They were really, really fun to see and hear.  It was an exceptional evening----made all the more so by the unexpectedness---going to Nashville?  Wonder what’s happening at the Opry?  SCORE!!!!

In the morning, Mike fed the fish in their beautiful pond--complete with waterfall! He and Louis went off to work,

and Linda took us on a trip to Whole Foods for a bit of shopping and a bit of lunch,. Then we were treated to a quick tour of Nashville---including a run down Music City’s Broadway with the windows open to hear the [any time of the day or night] music! 

And now we’re back on the boat.  The predicted Hallowe’en storm brought such a windy day that travel on the Kentucky Lake was out of the question.  In the evening the tornado warning whistle blew, but winds didn’t reach scary levels in the marina basin.   Something else to be thankful for!  The list is ever so long!!!

Today I treated me to a wonderful massage at the Spa here at GTB.  Fabulous.  The wind is still blowing a bit, so I’m guessing that it’ll be tomorrow when we head down the Tennessee River toward Mobile.

Happy November---can you believe it?  Be well and remember to breathe!

Quad Cities almost to St. Louis

Hello again…after um, 3 weeks, not two…

Grandson Paul’s Eagle Scout Court of Honor was a very memorable event.  One of the best things was hearing Paul’s dad and his scout leaders recall that at an early age Paul had said “Someday I’m gonna be an Eagle Scout”. And now, at 17 and in his senior year of high school, he has accomplished that goal!  

For a project, he combined the community service aspect with his involvement in the Arlington High School Band, which he currently serves as Drum Major. Hanging and storing the band’s uniforms was a problem for the band members, so Paul designed and built 5 stacking racks that take up little space when empty and serve the purpose when the uniforms are not being worn.   A job well done.  Grandpa Carl Siebert, parents Holly and Alan, and Paul’s sisters Laurel and Hazel all participated in the presentation of the wearable parts of the designation.   A reception at the local fire house was enjoyed by all.

I made a quick trip to NYC to meet up with high school classmate, Paula and some of her friends from Sumter, SC and New Hampshire.  They were in the city for the long Columbus Day weekend, and it is oh so easy to cross the Hudson River from Newburgh to Beacon, and then hop a train from for the 1-1/2 hour ride to Grand Central Terminal. Yummy lunch at Junior’s and my first trip to the NYC USO Club at Times Square.  Fun time.

Fred got to catch up with his DOF buddies, the weekly breakfast club that has met for 12 years or so; I spent some time with UU friends.  On our last day in town, we had a mini graduation party for granddaughter Devyn.

She completed the Capri Cosmotology School program a few days after we returned to the boat, so we celebrated early, while together---dressed her in the homemade cap and gown from my BSN degree marina party in 2007, and toasted her new career!  Yay for Dev!

Tarryn, Devyn, John and Kris

Back on the boat, we spent a day with brother Gene, his daughter Sandi, her daughter, Sarah, and Sarah’s children, Parker and Emma.  Parker, now 5, didn’t recall his 2010 visit to YOUNG AMERICA, but he and Emma, 3, may be old enough now to someday remember that great-uncle Fred took them and great-grandpa Gene for a dinghy ride on the Mississippi River.

On Monday, we enjoyed dinner in Davenport with Scott and Laurie Wolff, our dockmates at the  Moline Marina, and on Tuesday big bro Gene returned for lunch and to wave his ‘tear soaked handkerchief’ (Not) as we pulled away from Moline at 12:30---not such an early start.

First stop south of the Quad Cities was Muscatine, IA and this time the Pearl Button Museum was open, so tour I did.  In the group (actually we were the group) were 2 sisters who grew up in South Dakota---not far from my grandparents home where I spent childhood summers.   

The pearl button industry, like so many American history stories, grew from a one man operation to billions of buttons exported all around the world.  The population of Muscatine doubled and doubled again in the early 1900’s. 

At the heyday there were 7 factories (like this one) with automated machinery, extremely unsafe working conditions and using up mussels at an astonishing rate.. The mussels  have a very complicated and environment-sensitive life cycle. They live up to 40 years, require an external host when young, and were simply unable to reproduce at a rate that could keep up with the demand.  Eventually the local beds at the river's bend were all used up, and orders for buttons were filled by mussels that had to be trucked in, hurting profits.  Then zippers were invented, and someone found that plastic could work for most buttons. End of an era.  

 Fortunately, the city of Muscatine has several other industries that have grown over the past 100 years and kept people working.  Among them are Musco Lighting,

this bridge just beyond the marina is illuminated by Musco Lighting

Monsanto, Stanley Engineering Consultants and HNI, manufacturers of high-end office furniture..A lovely indoor ‘mall’ boasts gift shops, and in a bit of a twist, a ‘bring your own food’ wine bar that opened 4 years ago.  With beautiful hardwood throughout the stores, it is a most unusual spot.

The next two days were a hoot!  Our ‘plans’ to go to Bluff Harbor Marina in Burlington, IA were interrupted by 2 tow boats that took priority at Lock #18.  The first, pushing 15 barges (3 across and 5 deep---common on the Ohio, not as

anchored and tied to the wee docks...

 much on the MS) needed to be split to fit in the lock---at least a 2 hour event, and then another was ahead of us and in line.  A few miles above the lock, and just above Oquaka, IL (pop. 1390) Fred spotted a Culligan Man taking our picture.  As we moseyed along, so did he, and at the south end of Oquaka I went out on the bow to chat with him as Fred pointed the boat toward shore.  Doug, the Culligan Man, pointed to a tiny marina (we’d missed the wee channel while watching him), said he knew the owner and was sure it’d be ok.  We nosed in and did a 180 in 3-1/2 feet of water, dropped Knute to hold us still, and then tied the side of YOUNG AMERICA to the ends of 3 narrow slips.

Rhonda returned in the morning with a basket of home canned goodies!

  Doug, along with Rhonda & Paul, the marina owners, and teenagers Paulie and Peyton came aboard for happy hour.  A good time was had by all!

Underway the next day, we needed to have our 100+ gallon holding tank (sewage) pumped out, as it was ‘dangerously full!’  Bluff Harbor Marina offered the service, but had very low water in the marina.  Our bow stopped and sat solidly on the bottom ½ way into the dock, but the pumpout hose reached and the deed was done.  We were surprised that we floated free as we backed out, until the light dawned!  We weighed about 500# less than when we came in!

By 4:30 p.m. we were at Keokuk Yacht Club, sad that it was Thursday, as we remembered that Friday is party day at Keokuk.  Lo and Behold, the local Hy-Vee Grocery Store was showing the town what they can make available for the holidays!  So we dined on complementary wine tastings, cheese samples, fresh fruit and veggies, salt & sugar cured salmon, prime rib with 3 sauces, quinoa salad, beef jerky, Swedish meatballs, Vienna sausages, bar-b-q dip and sandwich rolls, not to mention a lovely dessert table.  No ice cream, though.

Friday we returned to the Quincy, IL boat club dock, and walked to the Pier Restaurant.  It was packed with antique car buffs who were having a weekend show.  The walleye dinner was delicious!

On Saturday we tucked into Hannibal, MO, and lo, it was festival time!  The city streets were clogged with crafters, weavers, dancers, musicians, rope makers, blacksmiths, kettle corn poppers, and Mark Twain, himself, who strolled about with his puppy before giving a 1 hour lecture at the MT Museum about Missouri’s involvement (or not) in the Civil War.  At 5 pm the Jaycees hosted a 5K run with Zombies stationed all along the route attempting to stop the hearts of the runners.

They say that in Hannibal, ½ the buildings are named for Mark Twain.  The other half are named for Tom Sawyer, Huck Finn or Becky Thatcher.  This year’s 7^th grade winners of the annual Tom and Becky contest were on hand to greet the public.  On Sunday, the MISSISSIPPI QUEEN brought about 400 more tourists to the festivities, and the Antique cars were expected to make a showing as well.   We got outta Dodge.

We will pause here for a brief commercial message about our dear Great Harbour trawler and its captain.  On Saturday at Hannibal, the night policeman walked out to the boat to let us know he was patrolling the area.   Very nice.  He said he was amazed that a boat our size could get into the marina, where the slips were sized for 8’x 20’ or smaller crafts.  Two things make it possible.  We need only 3 feet or more (or less) of water to maneuver, and Fred does some pretty masterly maneuvers!  It’s really fun to see some of the surprising places we can dock.  That’s all.

Louisiana, MO was also having a fall festival this weekend, and we passed on it, instead spending the afternoon at Two Rivers Marina properly hanging the four Hudson River prints that eschewed tape on the wall of our dinette/office.  Neighbors at the Two Rivers Marina told us about the festival’s Duck race, where 3 large black garbage bags of little numbered yellow duckies were dumped into the River at an arbitrary starting line.  ‘Catchers’ at the arbitrary finish line grabbed the first ten as winners (of cash-- numbered ducks sell for $3.00 each or 2/$5.00---the Lions Club makes a bundle!) and then scurried around the water to collect all the rest of the ducks.  T’was a windy day, so that was no small feat!   Fun.

Tomorrow,  Tuesday, we expect to again have the boat hauled at Port  Charles Marina.  Once again a prop is shuddering and needs to be looked at.  After that, we’ll head to St. Louis and the ‘goofy 200’, after which it’ll be decision time at Cairo.

See you then…Be well and remember to breathe!